-50 years of age, All For The Maw
-And God created the truffle
-The recipe Cute duck with truffles
Our house is burning and we are looking elsewhere
One should always be wary of wars against the symbols, hospital scarves agitated to an enemy who takes all the space, absolving all other, hiding all its ramifications and complexities of grievances. Looking the hunters balefully, is focused on the muleta, then eyes widen before the videos of industrial logging ... The gaze is constantly drawn to a specific point, a fight for example, a strong image, a symbol to destroy. The modernization of our society thrives on these fights. But are they always fair ? Are the traditions enemy of our modernity today ..?
The traditions of the Southwest give nausea at any environmentalist : foie gras, ortolans, bullfighting ... For Animal Welfare, we will have to stop. Stop orchestrate, raise them, to force-feed, kill them and watch their death, eating them. There would be immense pleasures of civilization disappear but what argument ..! Some have told of slavery… The planet would end it by eating only unprocessed vegetables and animals they invade us with their presence ? The bet would panache but the probability that the human race to become vegetarian in the ages to come seems limited.
The terroir of the Southwest is a land of meat, of game, of farms. Migratory land, for birds and for men, where traditions of each coalesced traditions of others. The culinary heritage is one of the treasures of our region. The animal has been in the history of the country of place, in the farm, the plate, in the arena. The South West may seem to represent a hedonism Gascon somewhat barbaric and archaic but that is not so. When attacks easy images of animal suffering, we often inflicts blinders on everything else. When there is a hand that feeds or who gave, that student, that hunting, who kills a beast, it has been directed with respect, knowledge and recognition. The industrialization of meat production has she not been the greatest violence to the animal condition forever ? Ortolan hunting, tolerated in France but whose actions in the kitchen is already losing, forced the country to a second warning from the European Commission which calls for ban. The Landes hunter becomes the enemy to be defeated to preserve the ortolan. Pressure groups for the defense of migratory birds in war against hunters, it is the Greens cities that fight environmentalists fields. As climate change threatens the extinction of an animal species on six, we prevent, between human of the same species, take off our eyes from the small end of the telescope small unjust wars where animal welfare gains nothing.
Pour consulter le Potiron Bleu dans son intégralité : Blue Pumpkin No. 11
It's sometimes a little sadness that we leave the summer and hot weather, buy residents have reinvested the city, children drag their new school bags and join the way to school. The seasons charts, instead of autumn is not to envy. However, despite the first rains, despite the light that runs out, Bordeaux is beautiful in autumn and found its sweetness ; the end of the harvest is celebrated and vines create furrows gold and ocher in the countryside, markets are marked by the arrival of mushrooms and game, we feel the first chimney fires ...
Autumn is well suited to the colors of Bordeaux. Stone the Gironde, its blond, goes well with cloudy skies : the first ray of sun it shines and golden hues burst by their contrast. Garonne brown here, creamy, casing the banks of softness and leaves form brown monochromes.
The building in the City of Wine will also create his first game with the autumn lights. The museum is exceptional, enjoy it..
We wish you all a beautiful autumn 2016 !
Au sommaire de ce nouveau numéro :
Les Canards en colère s’expriment sur la crise aviaire
L’Asperge du Blayais obtient l’IGP
Goûts de France et influences d’ailleurs en Grèce et en Algérie
Merci Jean-Pierre, quelques mots sur JP Coffe
La recette du Croustillant Féta et Poires de Kuzina par Vincent Ruelle
Pour consulter le Potiron Bleu dans son intégralité : Potiron Bleu n°10 – Printemps 2016
The first cold are never very pleasant, the early morning frosts bite cheeks and force us to look at summer behind the shoulder, gesture for less incofortable, particularly when one is bundled up in a big scarf.
In the Rue Gourmande, we celebrated last summer moments with two nice events :
The Feast of the First Tomato, where the public could enjoy the diversity of the Golden Apple, learn a little about this fruit in the rich history and appreciate all its variations. Then in the evening where Kuzina “Greek to” allowed the trip to operate, music and friendly atmosphere gave holiday tunes at restaurant. acclaimed, Athenian musicians have promised to return.
To avoid falling into gloom, it is time to focus on the pleasures of the new season : in the countryside, canned filled the cupboards and the leaves begin to make beautiful rugs on the floor, the landscape is tinged with softer colors, mushrooms and gibers mark the period by their flavors… One then finds the hot room of satisfaction, putting hands around the bowl of soup, and comfort of larger dishes. Autumn is good, enjoy in !
Duck identity Southwest brand : His presence on our plates is due to imports and recipes traveling and are written, to discoveries and to the men and women who have learned little by little to maintain and to better consume what nature creates.
It was towards the end of the Middle Ages that the technique of gavage arrived in the Southwest. The pharaohs of Egypt had entrusted the task to the Jews there thousands of years, practice is diffused in our region after a long journey across the Mediterranean. The corn was then discovered in America and its culture in our region became predominant from the sixteenth century.
Egyptian discovery conveyed by the Hebrew and transmitted for generations in the Southwest in the US discovered a happy combination : Corn is perfect for the duck feeding. Volatile stuffed corn become fat enough so that farmers can use it as its meat preservation process. The confit was born !
In the early eighteenth century, foie gras is served in Gascony in various ways : "English", Seared then encased in bacon and baked, "Indian style", with pickles and lemon, "Italian", whose fat is linked with an orange juice, cooked "stewed", " the spindle ", "Strainer", sometimes accompanied cockscomb who were at the time highly valued. The duck does not seem to be very popular for its meat : in the recipe book "Le Cuisinier Gascon", written by Louis Auguste de Bourbon (grand-son of Louis XIV), one can count twenty ways to prepare chicken while the duck is only offered for foie gras (with ten proposals) and his nets. Then, in 1795, Nicolas Appert discovered canning (canning). This new food preservation process makes the production of foie gras-exponential, the duck is needed on our soil.
In year 1898, Alcide Bontou published the first "Treaty of Bordelaise cuisine" to Feret editions and offers several duck recipes : olive, turnip, orange, stuffed with bacon.. Foie gras is offered baked casserole, wet broth with bacon and butter, served on a crust of bread, covered with truffle sauce… Data proportions reflect a time when the little fungus had not the same value and where the appetite for fat was limitless ! The duck is then ate all the sauces and Landes, Gers, the Upper and Lower Pyrenees in producing consistently .
It will take years 70 for the duck is most wanted for his liver. It was at this time that the duck becomes a new staple of our gastronomic landscape. So iconic today, it owes its fame to André Daguin, former chef of the Hotel de France in Auch. The "Maigret" Andre Daguin, This is the wing of duck amputated sleeve, simply grilled. It was time to think out the duck all these sauces in which it was customary to dip the, it was superb to make its product, without altering its taste.
With time, the duck was appreciated at its true value and it is not only the foie gras that we wanted to cook. We appreciate the duck today, aiguillettes, the sleeves, gizzards, the heart, carcasses, the fat…. His methods of preparation and consumption have increased : en sauce, wire rack, fresh, smoke, confit , en conserve… Duck is undoubtedly an animal to which our regional food owes much !
Mallard is meanwhile one of the most hunted game in Europe. In France, it is estimated that the hunting season 1998/99 collected over 1 500 000 colverts, making him the most wanted duck. This wild species is migratory : it crosses France from November to December. Its flesh is firmer than its farmed cousin.
For 6 petites cruchades : 100g flour / 200g of corn flour / 50g sugar / 1The milk / 1 tablespoon orange blossom coffee / 1 vanilla pod.
For ceps, count per serving : 50g ceps / 20g sugar / 30g grapes.
Heat the milk in the pan with powdered sugar, vanilla and orange flower and a pinch of salt. As soon as the milk starts to boil, lay the two flours in rain, previously amalgamated, while stirring. Out of the fire, dry out the dough as for choux pastry. When everything becomes thick and smooth, it can be spread in a thin layer on a floured board. It cut the shares that is made to brown the butter in a pan. Once drained, sprinkled with powdered sugar.
For ceps, must be cleaned (without water) and finely chop. It must then fry in butter in a pan over high heat, adding sugar to rain while cooking and after cooking grapes. Serve hot accompanied cruchades ceps and grapes slightly caramelized.
Following the blind tasting at Kuzina, Friday 9 October for the Gourmet Street, Lot went out and made their entry in the map of La Tupina :
*Château La Favière 2011 (Bordeaux Superior), unique property of Saint Seurin sur l'Isle.
*Château Rollan de By 2009 (Cru Bourgeois, Médoc)
*Special mention to the beautiful wine labels Monicord by Audrey Bakx.
During the "War of Cassoulets" 2015 New York, which took place in September on the occasion of 30 years of "D'Artagnan", the jury to award the prize for the most "authentic" cassoulet which was attributed to Pierre Landet (Félix restaurant) native of Colomiers. her classes, he made them with Marcellin Pujol, alongside which it works 1980 to 1984.
Marcellin Pujol came into learning at the age of 13 years at the Hotel Regina in Toulouse. He rose through the ranks of the trade in the most prestigious French and foreign palaces before creating his own restaurant in Blagnac in years 70 where it will get the first year a Michelin star. He retired from active life in years 90. It was during his life distinguished Master Chef of France, Knight of Agricultural Merit, medalist of Technical Education. He has all his life prompted many vocations.
Franck Tissue, Head to La Tupina also learned a lot from this great leader. He had the chance to be part of his last apprentice and trained by looking at the work as "a conductor" in her kitchen : "We must have seen him cook to understand the emotion he gave me the day I knew I wanted to do this job. I observed while preparing a simple sautéed mushrooms. I've never seen anyone cook with much love. ». Of this time, Franck Audu filled his ears and his eyes a thousand gestures, listened to the stories his mentor told him, is familiar with the lamb, understood the importance of juices and accuracy of sauces. As Pierre Landet in New York, it perpetuates the cassoulet according to the precepts of Marcellin Pujol La Tupina.
La Rue Gourmande invites you to discover the best local products, South-West culinary news, and the appointment of La Tupina, Gourmande street in this new Blue Pumpkin number.
Contents of this summer issue 2015 :
-Advocate for quality
-Kuzina, Greek influences found
-The real tomato season